"Che"

Steven Soderburgh’s epic visual history book “Che” is an extensive look at the revolutionary life of Argentine-born, Cuban patriot Ernesto “Che” Guevara, but fails to make us truly feel for the iconic figure.

At nearly five hours in length, the motion picture thoroughly recounts the road to revolution taken by Che and his comrades, as well as the martyrdom ultimately suffered.

We are introduced to a very human Che, gasping for air and chest wheezing with each breath of air mustered into his asthmatic lungs as he and his troop of guerillas make their way through the Sierra Maestra Mountain Range of Cuba. Benicio del Toro is utterly unquestionable as Guevara, with looks to deceive and equipped with a convincing Argentinean accent. Throughout the film he carries the authority, charisma and fire that Che carried throughout his life.

Soderburgh executes the camera work and plot of the story marvelously with simple-hand held shots on course film that capture the grittiness of jungle life, the gore of war and the plight of the Cuban and Bolivian people. He also includes some scenes loaded with metaphorical significance, giving us, for example, witness of an ill and frustrated Guevara fighting with his unwilling, malnourished pack-horse as the unwanted guerillas trudge through the mountains of Bolivia in search of support for their cause.

However, one thing lacking in the 296 minutes of film is a decent glimpse into the mind of Che, a sense of his insecurities, his inner-struggles and doubts. This seems to shape the film to be more of a visual history book than a traditional cinematic experience, despite the superb acting, classical score and near-extinct tradition of the intermission.

But perhaps this was Soderburgh’s intention; to give a “these are the facts” telling of Guevara’s later years of life and let the audience decide on who he was based on what the man did in his life, not the legend we have made him today.

If you are truly interested in Che Guevara, Latin America or revolutions, then this nearly five-hour film is your fight. If not, I don’t think you’ll want to be a part.

Photo credit: Teresa Isasi. An IFC Films

Familiar Faces

Now over two months into the English Opens Doors Program, my outlook on a great many things is beginning to change. I am realizing more and more what lesson plans and activities succeed and fail miserably in class. I can safely say that things are getting better and I am seeing some progress in my students. Slowly but surely. Rome wasn't built in a day.

I've also resigned to the fact that I'll be here in Chile, or rather in South America, a good continent south of what I know for a solid six months more. I think I've passed the majority of the downs that can come with moving to a completely new environment and am happy to report I'm quite content here in Antofagsta. I have a great host family, a good school, a terrific teaching partner and a network of support from the other volunteers and natives I have met here. Oh, and the ocean is a nice touch. I've also been taking advantage of the at times Twilight Zone-like amount of free time I have here to read some acclaimed literature, play the guitar, learn pilates and other exercises and write blogs like this one.

This Friday past, I attended a conference for English teachers in this region of Chile. I picked up on a few pointers and realized what I could do better. I also was blessed to see a few familiar faces as many of the coordinators from the capital traveled here to organize and execute the conference. It was strange, I felt like I was seeing a family member from the States, someone I hadn't seen for a some time, leaving me feeling very blessed, accepted and happy.

We went out that night for a few drinks and the following day we explored the local fish market. You name it, they got it: fresh albacore, squid, mussells, the works. I ordered some delicious seviche, raw fish and shellfish cooked in the citrus juices of limes and served with fresh parsley. An incredible taste. My mouth is watering as I type thinking about it.

We also saw some sea lions in the nearby cove, who, in exchange for a small show for the eager public, live like kings off of the fish innards thrown to them by workers in the market next door. My host family says sometimes sea turtles do the same. Now that's a sight I would love to see. So would my brother, Dillon, I imagine.

There, we were approached by a soft-looking man in his late 30s or 40s asking for some spare change. I told him no, and he replied in his melodic voice asking me if I spoke any English. I said yes, and apparently so did he. We had a friendly conversation about where I was from and what I thought about Chile. He told us that he learned nearly all of his English from watching television, mostly programs on the History and Discovery channels. He spoke really good English and I was thoroughly impressed so I gave him a few coins for the show. Some people just have a natural knack for things I reckon.

So, for the near future I plan on developing some interesting and relevant lesson plans for my students, tackling Cien años de soledad, enjoying the ocean views, and reaching my goal of looking like one of those actors in "300" (only half serious). Thanks for reading. Until next time-

Grant

San Pedro de Atacama

Hello everyone!

Last week, some of my fellow volunteers and I took advantage of an extended weekend and travelled to San Pedro de Atacama, the driest desert in the world, located about 100 miles to the East of Antofagasta where I am currently living. At an altitude of roughly 8,000 to 14,000 feet, San Pedro is quite literally out of this world.

The less is more principle definitely applies here in The Atacama Desert. Because there is less of things like water, foliage and animal life, every thing you see is more striking and more extraordinary.

During my voyage to the town of San Pedro, I caught glimpses of brightly plumed falcons, mohawked sparrows, wild llamas and deer-like guanacos against an unreal landscape of mountain ranges, sand dunes and volcanoes.

The town is quite small with a set of narrow streets to divide the many restaurants, hostals and tourism companies. Yes indeed, the word is out. San Pedro is a very popular tourist destination and expensive, but it's worth it.

After booking our hostal, we rented bycicles and trekked it to El Valle de la Luna, roughly 10 miles outside of the town. We arrived shortly before sunset and hiked a sand dune to the top of the mountain range. There we caught the other-worldy view of the moon-like terrain as its colors shifted from shades of brown, to red, to blue, to violet and finally to black with nightfall. Nice touch.

We then jumped back on our bikes and peddled back toward town under a blanket of big, bright, abundant stars. The altitude, clear sky and very little man-made light makes the Atacama desert an ideal location for stargazing. You forget how many stars there actually are until nights like this one.

The following day we traveled to El Salar de Atacama, the Atacama Salt Flat, via bus. Nearly all of the desert is covered in varying layers of salt due to the ancient sea and later, large lakes that once covered the now dry desert. Here, at the salt flat, there is white as far as the eye can see. There are also small ponds scattered about, where three of the only four species of flamencos in the world live, feasting on the small crestaceans that live in the highly mineralized water. I also saw sea monkeys. They really do exist. Strange creatures.

Later, we were taken to two large lagunes, Miñique and Miscanti. The landscape looked unreal, more like a painting. The bright blue water, snow capped volcanoes and yellow desert grasses provided a wonderful contrast for the spectacular views.

Despite one of the volunteers having a minor bicycle accident, a fruitless search for a mythological tunnel, and running out of cash, it was a wonderful trip. If you ever are in the area, I strongly recommend you check out San Pedro de Atacama.

Now, I'm watching my pesos for a trip to Peru in July.

Until next time-

G